🧰 Tools You May Need
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Small flathead screwdriver (for terminal blocks)
- Drill with appropriate bits (if mounting to drywall or junction box)
- Level (for straight mounting)
- Labeling tape, wire markers, or color-coded wire (recommended)
- Cable ties or adhesive clips (for wire management)
- Voltage tester or multimeter (optional but useful)
- Ethernet cable (optional – may be needed to connect the hub to your network switch)
- Low-voltage 2-conductor wire (optional – may be needed to extend existing sensor wiring to the hub)
Estimated Installation Time:
• 10–20 minutes per sensor (includes wire tracing, labeling, and reconnection)
• 30–60 minutes if new Ethernet cabling or power needs to be routed to the hub
Installation
📍 Step 1: Locate Existing Sensors
- Identify Legacy Devices
- Look for existing panic buttons, door sensors, alarm contacts, freezer contacts, etc. These devices are usually wired into an alarm panel cabinet (typically labeled inside the cover).
- Label Each Wire
- Before disconnecting any wires, label them with masking tape or wire labels (e.g., "Front Door", "Break Room Panic", etc.)
- Take a photo of the original panel wiring for reference.
🔌 Step 2: Disconnect and Prepare
- Power down the alarm panel (if necessary) to avoid false alerts.
- Gently remove the wires from their terminal screws.
- Inspect wires — if needed, strip ¼ inch of insulation to expose clean copper.
🧲 Step 3: Mount the WSPER Connect Hub
- Choose a location near your existing panel or where the sensors wire converge.
- In some cases, sensor wires must be pulled from the original alarm panel and extended to reach the WSPER Connect Hub.
- Insert two mounting screws into drywall, wood, or a junction box, leaving the heads protruding slightly.
- Tip: To align the screws accurately, place a piece of tape across the back of the device to mark the keyhole slot positions. Then transfer the tape to the wall as a drilling guide.
- Partially screw two mounting screws into drywall, wood, or a junction box — leave the heads sticking out slightly
- Align the keyholes on the back of the hub with the screws.
- Slide the hub left or right until it locks securely into place.
- Or attach with heavy-duty Velcro for non-permanent installs
- Secure wires by Zip Ties, Velcro or similar wire ties
- Ensure the area is ventilated and protected from water or damage.
🌐 Step 4: Connect Power & Network
- Connect Power Based on Your Model:
- If your model supports PoE (Power over Ethernet), connect the Ethernet cable to a PoE-enabled switch or injector.
- For models without PoE, use the included 12V DC power adapter or connect to a compatible power source.
- Connect Ethernet wire to your local network switch
- Device will power on — confirm status LEDs light up.
🎯 Step 5: Wire Sensors to Input Terminals
- Each WSPER Connect Hub model supports 1, 2, or 4 inputs or more via expansion hubs.
- Match the labeled wire (from Step 1) to the corresponding input terminal.
- Use the included terminal block diagram to insert wires into:
- IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4 (depending on your hub model)
- Tighten the screw terminal to secure the wire.
- Use the WSPER Input Assignment Sheet to double-check:
Hub Input # | Device Name | Location |
IN1 | Panic Button | Register 1 |
IN2 | Panic Button | Register 2 |
IN3 | Door Contact Sensor | Front Door |
IN4 | Door Contact Sensor | Back Door |
✳️ We recommend filling this sheet out and taking a photo for your records.
📦 Step 6: Optional — Wire Sirens or Lights
- Use the relay outputs to control:
- Flashing strobes
- Buzzers/sirens
- Lights for alert indication
- Wire into Rly1, Rly2, etc. based on your needs.
Hub Output # | Function | Device |
Rly1 | On/Off Lights | Light Board |
Rly2 | BOH Strobe | Strobe 1 |
Rly3 | Lobby Strobe | Strobe 2 |
Rly4 | Siren | Siren 1 |
✅ Final Step: Test & Confirm
- Contact Your WSPER support rep to help verify:
- Inputs are recognized correctly
- Alerts trigger as expected
- Labels match what’s programmed in the dashboard
- You’ll receive a final confirmation message or email once setup is complete.
🛑 Pro Tips
- Use different color wires, tags, or labeling tape to clearly identify each sensor or relay connection — this makes installation and future troubleshooting faster.
- The more organized and detailed your labeling, the smoother the installation process will be.
- Mount the unit at eye level if it needs to be accessed frequently, or out of reach in secure areas to prevent tampering.
- Use cable ties or adhesive clips to manage and route wires neatly — good cable management improves safety and makes future servicing easier.
- Use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) or battery backup to maintain operation during power outages and ensure critical alerts still get through.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What if my existing alarm panel isn't labeled? How do I know which wires go where?
A: If the panel isn’t labeled, we recommend the following:
- Trace wires visually back to their source (e.g., door contact, panic button, freezer sensor).
- Use a continuity tester or multimeter to identify circuits by opening and closing the sensor or button and checking for signal change. Need help? [See the step-by-step guide below on how to test and verify your circuits.]
- Disconnect one wire at a time and test it at the source to avoid confusion.
- Take photos before removing wires — this can help you reference the original setup.
- Contact our support team with a photo of your panel — we can often guide you based on common wiring practices.
Q: What if I'm unsure where to connect wires on the WSPER Connect Hub?
A: Each terminal is clearly labeled for inputs and outputs. Refer to the included wiring guide or contact our team — we’ll walk you through it.
Q: Can I test connections before full installation?
A: Yes! You can power the device temporarily and test input/output functions using a test sensor or button before mounting permanently.
Q: Is there a way to pre-label connections before wiring?
A: Absolutely. Use labeling tape, zip-tie markers, or a wire tagging tool to mark each cable according to the terminal it will be connected to.
🔍 How to Identify Unlabeled Wires with a Continuity Tester or Multimeter
Step 1: Disconnect the wires from the existing panel
- Remove wire pairs from the terminal block to isolate them for accurate testing.
Step 2: Set your tool to continuity mode
- If using a multimeter, set it to the continuity setting (often marked with a speaker or diode symbol).
- A continuity tester will light up or beep when it detects a closed circuit.
Step 3: Attach probes to each wire in the pair
- Touch one probe to each of the two wires.
- With the button or sensor in its normal (resting) state, the tool should not beep or show continuity (unless it’s a normally closed sensor).
Step 4: Trigger the connected sensor or button
- While keeping the probes connected, open the door, press the panic button, or activate the sensor.
- If it's the correct pair, you should hear a beep or see continuity on the screen.
➡️ If nothing happens, move to the next door, window, or panic button and trigger that one — repeat until you hear a beep or see continuity.
🧑🔧 Pro Tip: This step is much easier with two people — one at the multimeter and one walking around to activate devices.
Step 5: Label the wire
Once you’ve identified the sensor, use labeling tape or tags to mark both wires (e.g., "Front Door Contact" or "Freezer Alarm").
🧪 What If You Can’t Identify the Sensor?
If you test all available sensors and still get no beep or continuity, then the issue may be:
- A damaged sensor (internally failed switch)
- A broken wire (open circuit in the wall or junction box)
Here’s how to test for this:
➕ Sensor & Wiring Test
After labeling all working sensors, choose one remaining unidentified wire pair and:
- Disconnect the sensor from the end of the wire (if accessible).
- Touch the two wires together at the sensor location to close the circuit manually.
- Check the multimeter or tester — it should now beep or show continuity.
✅ If it does:
The wiring is good, and the sensor is likely faulty.
❌ If it doesn’t:
The wiring is likely damaged somewhere between the sensor and the panel. You may need to replace or reroute it.